Commissioned by the Great Master of the Order of the Knights of Malta, Caravaggio’s Beheading of St John was made in 1608 for the chapel of the Co-Cathedral of St John in Valletta. It is the largest work the artist ever painted (12 feet x 17 feet) and the only one he ever signed.
The painting depicts the moment in Biblical history where St John is beheaded by King Herod to satisfy the blood lust of the seductive dancer, Salome. The scene is the courtyard of a prison and the grisly murder is observed by two other prisoners looking through a grille, while a young woman and an old crone stand ready to take the severed head and put it on the waiting platter. The blood flowing from St John’s neck drips towards the bottom of the frame and in its red stream, Caravaggio has signed his name.
On the oratory’s right wall hangs a smaller Caravaggio painting, St Jerome, which was stolen in 1984 and rescued in a dramatic operation a few months later. In it, an elderly man sits with a pen in his hand.
Caravaggio went to Malta to avoid the death penalty that had been inflicted on him after committing a murder in Rome and, with the bloodless body of Saint John, he seems to be portraying his victim’s and, at the same time, his own end. Many describe the painting as his masterwork.
I have uploaded a few images of Birgu churches and Holy week statues to my Flickr Valletta Events section.
More information about Holy Week in Malta can be found at www.holyweekmalta.com
This site provides a map with various Malta locations, highlighting Passion of Christ exhibitions.
Christmas street lights in Valletta
Valletta is a wonderful gateway to the rest of the island where you can spend a peaceful and relaxed Christmas vacations. Your stay in this wonderful city will make you feel as if you have stepped back in time and you will be able to experience the splendor of the Renaissance and Baroque architecture of this world heritage site. Those interested in Christmas shopping, will find the main shopping streets sparkling with festive lights and packed with shoppers. The weather is generally mild and even on the coldest days in winter, the sun usually makes a generous appearance. At the Christmas Market which is open daily you can buy the components for your own nativity scene, as well as sweets, toys and all sorts of Christmas-related ornaments and goodies. Shoppers can marvel at the elaborate additions to nativity scenes. For those interested in going to the theatre there is the Christmas Pantomine at the Manoel Theatre. This year’s theme is Pirates of the Mediterranean….. bearing gifts of pirate gold.
The Christmas Pantomine will be staged at the Manoel Theatre a short walk from Maison La Vallette. It is the oldest theatre in europe and dates back to 1732.
Throughout Valletta the great sixteenth century buildings, monuments and statues are bathed in light at night. The bastions and streets are light up and are themselves works of art. All the churches are at their best with gleaming chandeliers and nativity scenes. St John’s Cathedral a jewel of baroque architecture is a must during this time of year.
